Setsubun iwashi

Food culture changes as places change. In western Japan, including Kyoto, sardines are eaten on Setsubun. Setsubun means the division of the seasons. Setsubun in winter, in particular, is a time when people throw roasted soybeans while shouting ”Devils out! Fortune in!’’ (Oni wa soto, Fuku wa uchi), and eat as many beans as their age to ward off evil spirits.
In Gifu, where I am from, there is no custom of eating sardines as far as I know.
In western Japan, on the other hand, the heads of sardines are displayed at the entrance or grilled with salt. It seems that the unique smell of sardines and the smoke emitted during grilling were thought to ward off evil spirits.
During Setsubun, demons are paraded around at various shrines in Kyoto, and maiko (apprentice geiko) perform bean-throwing ceremonies.The beans are called ‘fuku-mame’, which are beneficial when eaten and will ensure good health.
Visit the shrine at this time of year when there are fewer tourists.