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Blog Kyoto
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Chez KiKuSui
I first visited Chez KiKuSui when my supervisor took me there during my postgraduate studies. I’ve been going there for over 15 years now. Lunch starts at 2,000 yen and includes a salad, soup, bread, a main course of fish or meat, and a choice of coffee or tea. In particular, the homemade bread is served in unlimited portions; they’ll keep bringing it out until you’re absolutely stuffed. Today I had a bavette steak made from flap meat. In Japan, due to its shape, it is known as ‘kainomi (shellfish meat)’. Although this is a traditional dish from Lyon, the…
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Kaede-bashi Bridge (Shugakuin Imperial Villa)
The Kaede-bashi Bridge spans the central island of Yokuryuchi Pond. Whilst the area around Yokuryuchi Pond is dominated by evergreen trees such as evergreen spindle and sakaki, the area surrounding this bridge is, as its name suggests, surrounded by autumn foliage. The wooden bridge looks particularly striking in November, when the autumn colours begin to appear and it is covered in crimson leaves. That said, the season of green autumn leaves is also well worth a visit. The wooden bridge reflected on the surface of the lake creates a scene reminiscent of an Impressionist painting.
- Kyoto
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Chitose Bridge at Shugakuin Imperial Villa
Chitose Bridge spans the water between the central island and the Banshō-u pavilion in the Yokuryuchi Pond at Shugakuin Imperial Villa. It is said to have been donated by Naito Nobuatsu, the Kyoto Shoshidai, during the villa’s renovation in the first half of the 19th century. The Kyoto Shoshidai was a key post established by the Edo Shogunate in Kyoto, primarily responsible for monitoring the Imperial Court and the court nobility, as well as exercising control over the daimyō of the western provinces. Whilst the Edo Shogunate exercised control over the Imperial Court, it also guaranteed the Court’s living expenses;…
- Kyoto
- Spot introduction
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Shugakuin Imperial Villa
Although Kyoto is teeming with people everywhere you look, there are still places where you can enjoy beautiful scenery without getting overwhelmed by the crowds. One such place is Shugakuin Imperial Villa. Whilst advance booking is generally required, you can visit on the day if there are any available slots. Compared to Katsura Imperial Villa, which is very popular with foreign visitors, it tends to be less crowded. Visits are conducted as guided tours, so you cannot wander freely around the grounds, but you can enjoy the elegant surroundings that were so beloved by Emperor Go-Mizunoo. In particular, the view…
- Kyoto
- Spot introduction
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Ganko Takasegawa Nijo-en
Tonight, I’m taking guests to Ganko Takasegawa Nijo-en for a dinner with maiko. As photographs of the maiko are not permitted on social media, here is a picture of the garden instead. This garden was created in the early 17th century by the wealthy merchant Suminokura Ryōi. During the Meiji era, it became the villa of Aritomo Yamagata, who later served as Prime Minister; the garden was subsequently renovated by Ogawa Jihei, who was responsible for the landscaping of Heian Jingu Shrine and Maruyama Park, and remains in its present form to this day. At night, the garden is illuminated,…
- Kyoto
- Spot introduction
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Tea Picking Experience
Wazuka Town is popular with foreign visitors as it is relatively close to Kyoto, offers scenic views, and provides the opportunity to experience tea picking. It is a frequent stop on tours. The chance to try tea leaf tempura and sample a variety of teas is particularly popular. At this time of year, the tea fields are covered with black sheets known as ‘kanreisya (cold-proof netting)’. This is to prevent sunlight from reaching the tea leaves, thereby bringing out the umami flavour of the ‘tencha’ used to make matcha. Due to the growing global demand for matcha, the use of…
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- Spot introduction
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Chii Hachiman Shrine
Chii Hachiman Shrine is situated to the east of the Miyama Thatched-Roof Village. It is said to have been founded in 1071, but was subsequently destroyed by a landslide and relocated to its present site in 1567. Furthermore, a legend of the Eight-Headed Great Stag is associated with this shrine. In the early 8th century, a demon in the form of a giant stag with eight heads appeared at the Imperial Palace in Kyoto, causing immense damage by ravaging fields and killing livestock. Empress Genmei, who reigned at the time, ordered a military commander named Kaga Saburō Kaneie to subdue…
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- Spot introduction
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Michi no eki (Roadside Station) Woody Keihoku
When visiting the Miyama Thatched-Roof Village, a stop at Michi no eki Woody Keihoku is an absolute must. As it is about an hour’s drive from Kyoto, it is the perfect place to take a break. Michi no eki is a government-designated roadside station found along roads and highways in Japan. Like other Michi no eki, the premises are lined with locally grown seasonal vegetables, which are so popular that they often sell out before midday. You can also try Keihoku’s speciality: natto mochi, where salty natto is wrapped in mochi and coated in kinako. However, my personal recommendation is the local soft-serve ice cream.…
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Miyama Kayabuki-no-sato
About a 90-minute drive from Kyoto city centre brings you to this thatched-roof village, which could be described as a quintessential Japanese landscape. Nearly 40 thatched-roof houses stand side by side, with the oldest reportedly built over 200 years ago. Whilst Shirakawa-go, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is famous for its thatched roofs, this village, despite its proximity to Kyoto, sees few coach buses, allowing visitors to enjoy it at a leisurely pace. The downside is that it’s difficult to get there without a car, but there are day-trip bus tours available from Kyoto Station. We also organise car tours…
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- Spot introduction
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Imamiya Shrine Sinkō Festival (Procession Festival)
The 5th of May marks the Shinkō Festival at Imamiya Shrine. Its history is ancient, reportedly dating back to the year 1001. Three portable shrines—the Agui Mikoshi, the Taka Mikoshi and the Ōmiya Mikoshi—were prepared within the shrine grounds. The each weight of the Taka Mikoshi and the Ōmiya Mikoshi is said to exceed 100 kg, making them the heaviest in Kyoto. As Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the second "Great Unifier" of Japan, played a pivotal role in the revival of Imamiya Shrine. The Ōmiya Mikoshi, which he donated, bears not only the Imperial Chrysanthemum crest but also the paulownia crests (Go-san-no-kiri…
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Bamboo Shoots
Bamboo shoots grow at an astonishing rate. At their peak, they are said to grow by more than 1 metre a day. Whilst other plants have only one growth point, bamboo shoots have growth points at every node, numbering around 60 in total. As these nodes undergo cell division simultaneously, the shoot grows rapidly. Each node is covered by a single layer of skin; if this skin is removed, growth is said to cease. From March to May, the process of bamboo shoots growing can be observed in various locations. The photograph shows Moso bamboo in Arashiyama. Although native to…
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- Spot introduction
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Tripe and Liver Tempura
What has struck me most since arriving in Kyoto is the tempura made from tripe (the first stomach of the cow) , called ‘mino’ in Japanese, and liver. Although it is called ‘tempura’, it is clearly a deep-fried dish coated in breadcrumbs. In the past, you could find this tripe and liver tempura almost everywhere, particularly in the Tanaka district, near our guesthouse. Today, it can only be found in a few restaurants in the Sōjin district, near Kyoto Station. One of these is ‘Satake’. Perhaps because it has moved to new premises and the place has become cleaner and…
- Food
- Kyoto
- Spot introduction