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italico
Even on Ishigaki Island, restaurants come and go at a rapid pace, and there are many establishments that have closed down whilst I’ve been away for a while. Amidst this, ‘italico’ has been a beloved Italian restaurant on Ishigaki Island for over 20 years. It is a popular spot that is often visited on tours led by Mr Kobayashi, the birdwatching guide. Dining on the terrace whilst gazing out over the cobalt-blue Sakieda Bay is a truly relaxing experience. What’s more, at 1,100 yen for a starter, a main course of pasta and a drink, it’s remarkably good value—hard to…
- Ishigaki Island
- restaurant
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Shiraho Shokudō
About a 10-minute drive from Ishigaki Airport. Shiraho Shokudō has been a favourite with locals for many years. I finally managed to get in. The interior is exactly what you’d expect from a traditional neighbourhood eatery, but the menu offers a good variety, including Napolitan spaghetti and pork cutlet sandwiches. I ordered the deep-fried prawn set meal recommended by Mr Kobayashi, the birdwatching guide. The portion size was astonishing: four deep-fried prawns stood towering on the plate. It filled both my stomach and my heart, but it was a shame I was too full to have a shaved ice dessert.…
- Ishigaki Island
- restaurant
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Falafel Garden
We have vegetarian and vegan guests staying at our guesthouse. Before the COVID-19 pandemic, there were a fair number of vegetarian and vegan restaurants in Kyoto city, but now there aren’t many that can cater to these dietary requirements. Despite this, Falafel Garden is just a seven-minute walk from our guesthouse. Established in 2004, it is an Israeli restaurant that is a favourite with locals. Our top recommendation is the falafel sandwich—featured in the photo—served in pita bread, which gives the restaurant its name. Falafel is a Middle Eastern dish made by mixing mashed chickpeas or broad beans with spices…
- Kyoto
- restaurant
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Yoshizō Curry
It’s difficult to find affordable, tasty restaurants around Kyoto Station. That’s why Yoshizō Curry, located on the west side of Kyoto Avanti, is such a gem. The standard curry is an unbelievably cheap 390 yen, yet the quality is consistently good, and there’s always a queue at lunchtime. The restaurant has counter seating only, and as seats are spaced apart, it can’t accommodate more than ten people. However, as the service is quick and customers don’t linger, you won’t have to wait long to be seated. My favourite is the Katsu curry (pork cutlet curry), topped with a freshly fried…
- Kyoto
- restaurant
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Menya Shōmon
When I ask guests what they’d like for lunch whilst guiding them, the most common answers are sushi, tempura and ramen. Whilst sushi can be enjoyed at conveyor-belt sushi restaurants and tempura at restaurants with table seating—making them suitable for families—ramen often involves shops with counter seating only, which can be a bit of a hassle. In this context, Menya Shōmon is a real lifesaver, as it offers tables seating four. It’s conveniently located between Kinkaku-ji and Daitoku-ji, and the food is delicious. You can choose from a range of broths, including chicken bone broth with aged soy sauce, chicken…
- Kyoto
- restaurant
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Chicken Paitan Ramen – Tenten-yu
Alongside Chin-yu, Tenten-yu Ichijō-ji honten has played a key part in the history of Ichijōji’s Ramen Street. Starting out as a street stall, it opened its doors in Ichijōji in 1976 and remains one of Kyoto’s leading Chicken Paitan (Creamy chicken broth) ramen establishments to this day. I moved to Kyoto 16 years ago, and the first Kyoto ramen I ever tasted was at this very shop. The thin noodles go perfectly with the broth, which is slowly simmered from chicken bones and vegetables. I was surprised by the sweetness of the chicken and struck by the realisation that this was…
- Kyoto
- restaurant
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Bistro Le Bouchon
'Le Bouchon’ is one of Kyoto’s leading bistros. Established in 1999, it is a pioneer in casual French cuisine enjoyed at reasonable prices. The restaurant’s name is said to derive from the ‘bouchon’, a traditional Lyonnais eatery serving local specialities such as offal dishes. Grilled harami, served on a red chequered tablecloth known as ‘Vichy check’. Accompanied by a generous portion of chips, it pairs perfectly with a baguette. The way the breadcrumbs are deftly cleared away once you’ve finished eating is truly French. Since you’ve come to Japan, it goes without saying that you should sample Japanese cuisine, but…
- Kyoto
- restaurant
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Ten-don Kafū
Tempura is popular with overseas visitors. When I explain to them during guided tours that it’s a dish that originated in Portugal, they’re always surprised. Kafū, which has been situated in front of Kyoto University’s main gate for over 30 years, is a place where you can casually enjoy a delicious, piping-hot ten-don. Apparently, it used to be a kappo restaurant, and the owner always fries the tempura whilst dressed immaculately. It gets crowded with students at lunchtime, and queues can form, but the evening is the best time to visit. The kakiage rice bowl, served exclusively in the evening,…
- Kyoto
- restaurant
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Chūka Soba Kyōichi Honten
I’m often asked where to find dishes that are truly representative of Kyoto, but I find it difficult to recommend any one particular restaurant. Whilst it depends on your budget and personal taste, the restaurants that locals frequent regularly are where you’ll find the true taste of Kyoto. One such place is Chūka Soba Kyōichi Honten in Shijō Ōmiya. Established in 1948, it is a long-established restaurant where the majority of customers are locals. Whilst some chūka soba (Traditional soy-based ramen) shops have a soup with a lingering bitterness, here the broth is rich in dashi and has a subtle…
- Kyoto
- restaurant
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Nakatsubo
Takayama ramen is characterised by its light soy sauce broth, made from chicken bones, bonito flakes and vegetables, served with curly noodles. It is what is known as ‘old-fashioned Chinese-style noodles’ for Japanese, and locals refer to it as ‘Chūka soba’ or simply ‘soba’. This is why, if you order ‘soba’, you will be served Chinese-style noodles rather than Japanese buckwheat noodles. It was introduced from Tokyo in the early Showa period, and over the years, adjustments have been made—such as simmering the soup and soy sauce together—to ensure it remains warm and comforting even during Takayama’s cold winters. My…
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- Spot introduction
- Takayama
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Iroha
When guiding foreign visitors around, dietary restrictions can be a real challenge. As well as food allergies, of course, guests’ requests vary widely—from gluten-free and vegan to halal and kosher. Before the pandemic, I recall that gluten-free and vegan restaurants were relatively easy to find even in Kyoto city centre, but now it’s quite a struggle to track them down. What’s more, it’s difficult to judge whether the food at these places is actually any good. In this context, I highly recommend Iroha to anyone looking for gluten-free options. Alongside their daily special plate, they offer hamburg steak, curry and…
- Kyoto
- restaurant
- Spot introduction
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Chez KiKuSui
I first visited Chez KiKuSui when my supervisor took me there during my postgraduate studies. I’ve been going there for over 15 years now. Lunch starts at 2,000 yen and includes a salad, soup, bread, a main course of fish or meat, and a choice of coffee or tea. In particular, the homemade bread is served in unlimited portions; they’ll keep bringing it out until you’re absolutely stuffed. Today I had a bavette steak made from flap meat. In Japan, due to its shape, it is known as ‘kainomi (shellfish meat)’. Although this is a traditional dish from Lyon, the…
- Kyoto
- restaurant
- Spot introduction