What is the hage fish that represents Kyoto?

Kyoto still has traditional greengrocers. About a 10-minute walk south from our guesthouse is Toba Ume Shoten, a greengrocer that also sells takoyaki. Known as Kyoto’s cheapest takoyaki shop, it’s also a greengrocer offering delicious sashimi and vegetables delivered straight from the market.

Today’s sashimi is hage fish. When I first came to Kyoto, I was surprised to hear it called hage. Because in Japan, the term “hage (bald)” can also be a derogatory term referring to someone who has completely lost all their hair. In the Kansai region, “Hage” refers to Kawahagi (thread-sail filefish). The name comes from how its skin peels cleanly off from the head.

This season, during spawning, is one of the times Kawahagi tastes delicious, but the peak is yet to come. That’s because in winter, its liver—considered the most delicious part—grows larger. Please savor Kyoto’s signature Hage.