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Blog Food
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Sanma, Pacific saury
At the first auction of the month, Pacific saury fetched a price of 440,000 yen per kilogramme. In Japan, the kanji for ‘sanma’ depict a fish shaped like a sword that is in season in autumn. Prices are high at this time of year, and the fish are not as fatty as they are in season. However, as the saying goes, ‘Eating the first catch of the season extends your life by 75 days’, so the first catch is considered to bring good luck. Toba Ume Shoten had some Pacific saury landed in Eastern Hokkaido, so I asked them to…
- Food
- Kyoto
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Hamo-Otoshi
Tomorrow is ‘Yoiyoiyama’, the eve of the festival held two days before the Yamahoko Procession of Gion festival. Hamo (Pike Conger) is a fish traditionally eaten in Kyoto at this time of year. Although sourcing fish was difficult in Kyoto, which is far from the sea, hamo—a fish with extraordinary vitality—was reportedly the only species that could be transported alive from the Seto Inland Sea to Kyoto. However, hamo has sharp teeth and many small bones. Through trial and error, Kyoto’s chefs established a technique known as ‘honekiri (bone-cutting)’, in which only the fine bones are removed without cutting the…
- Food
- Kyoto
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Toyama Black Ramen
Toyama Black Ramen is now available as instant noodles even in supermarkets. Its most distinctive feature is, without a doubt, the jet-black colour of its broth. The jet-black base is made not with tamari soy sauce—the darkest variety—but with dark soy sauce. In August 1945, as the war was drawing to a close, the Great Toyama Air Raid took place. Although almost the entire city centre was destroyed, reconstruction work began immediately after the war, attracting many manual labourers to the area. It is said that ‘Black Ramen’ was created for these workers: a dish with a high salt content,…
- Food
- Takaoka
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Kombu Onigiri
In Takaoka, it is customary to wrap onigiri (rice balls) in tororo kombu rather than nori. Although Toyama Prefecture, including Takaoka, does not harvest kombu itself, it has the highest consumption of kombu in Japan. This is because, during the Edo period, Takaoka flourished as a port of call for Kitamae ships; at that time, large quantities of kombu harvested in Hokkaido were distributed through the area, and dishes using kombu—such as kobuzime is a traditional cooking method in which ingredients such as white fish and squid are sandwiched between sheets of konbu and left to marinate for several hours…
- Food
- Takaoka
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Abalone
It is said that Yamatohime-no-Mikoto, who is believed to have founded the Ise Shrine after travelling through various regions, arrived in Toba whilst searching for offerings for the shrine. She is said to have been deeply moved by the abalones offered to her by a female diver, and it is for this reason that, ever since, the abalone has become a sacred offering at the Ise Shrine. The Japanese black abalone, caught off the coast of Honshū, is currently in season. It is delicious as sashimi, of course, but also when steamed with sake. Nicknamed the ‘black diamond of the…
- Food
- Mie
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Tekone Sushi
Alongside Ise udon, tekone sushi is one of the specialities of a pilgrimage to Ise. It is a local dish in which red-fleshed fish, such as bonito and tuna, are marinated in a sauce made from a blend of soy sauce, mirin and sake, and then mixed with vinegared rice. It is said that the name ‘tekone (knead by hand)’ comes from the fact that fishermen used to fillet the fish they had caught on board their boats and mix it by hand. At Sushi Hisashi, you can enjoy Tekone Sushi whilst gazing out at the Isuzu River and the…
- Food
- Mie
- Spot introduction
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Ise Udon
Ise udon consists of extra-thick, soft udon noodles tossed in a sauce based on tamari soy sauce , which is characterised by its rich umami flavour. It is said to have been created during the Edo period to ease the burden on the stomachs of pilgrims travelling long distances to visit the Ise Shrine. It is said that the dish became known nationwide after the late radio writer Rokusuke Ei raved about it on the radio; the restaurant in question was Chitose. As the noodles are so soft, it is hardly surprising that those accustomed to the firm, springy Sanuki…
- Food
- Mie
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Kitakata Ramen
Kitakata ramen has a history stretching back nearly 100 years. Its defining feature is the flat noodles, approximately 4 mm wide, known as ‘flat, matured, high-water-content noodles’. These contain more water than standard noodles, giving them a smooth, effortless texture when swallowed, whilst offering a firm, springy bite. Furthermore, as they are carefully matured, they are said to resist becoming soggy even when boiled. There are around 90 ramen shops in Kitakata City, some of which are open from early in the morning. ‘Hasegawa Shōten’, located just north of Kitakata City Hall. This shop’s signature dish is traditional Shōwa-era ramen.…
- Food
- Fukushima
- Spot introduction
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Sea Squirt Nigiri
Sea Squirt (Hoya in Japanese) is a delicacy commonly enjoyed in the Tohoku region. It is in season from now through to summer, when its distinctive odour fades and its umami flavour intensifies. Due to its bumpy appearance, it is often referred to as the ‘pineapple of the sea’. However, contrary to its somewhat grotesque appearance, it has a refreshing taste that pairs beautifully with ponzu sauce. It pairs superbly with sake when served as sashimi or in a vinegar salad with salt-rubbed cucumber, but it is also delicious as a nigiri. I visited Tasuke Sushi in Shiroishi City. It…
- Food
- Miyagi
- Spot introduction
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Nemagari Bamboo
In the Tohoku region and Shinshu, the term ‘bamboo shoots’ generally refers not to the commonly eaten Moso bamboo shoots, but to Kuril dwarf bamboo, commonly known as nemagari bamboo. It grows not in bamboo groves but in thickets of sasa (bamboo grass), and is currently in season from late May to mid-June. Whilst the tough parts need to be trimmed away, unlike Moso bamboo, there is no need to remove the bitterness, making it a mountain vegetable with a pleasant crunch. The downside is that nemagari bamboo is a favourite food of Asian black bears, so you are likely…
- Food
- Spot introduction
- Yamagata
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TORIKIZOKU
Japanese izakaya chain is a must-visit whenever we’re on a group tour with over 20 people. As it can accommodate large groups, we use it for both lunch and dinner, but naturally, eating at the same chain day after day does start to get a bit monotonous. Even at times like that, Torikizoku’s ‘Toriki Bansankai’ set menu is a real lifesaver. It offers two hours of all-you-can-drink and all-you-can-eat, and as orders are placed via tablet, even our international guests can enjoy ordering with ease. One item on the all-you-can-eat menu that often prompts the question ‘What on earth is…
- Food
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Yuzu Shio Ramen
I always crave ramen when I’m on a business trip to the regions. Few dishes divide opinion quite like ramen, yet it is also a dish that reflects the flavours deeply rooted in each local area. Located close to Kanazawa Station, Yuzuki is a real lifesaver when time is short. Inside the shop, cardboard boxes of yuzu from Tokushima and Ehime are stacked high, giving a real sense of their dedication to yuzu. The Yuzu Shio Ramen, made with a chicken and seafood-based broth enhanced with natural salt and yuzu, is refreshingly light—a bowl of ramen that doesn’t leave you…
- Food
- Hokuriku
- Spot introduction