Sea Squirt Nigiri

　Sea Squirt (Hoya in Japanese) is a delicacy commonly enjoyed in the Tohoku region. It is in season from now through to summer, when its distinctive odour fades and its umami flavour intensifies. Due to its bumpy appearance, it is often referred to as the ‘pineapple of the sea’. However, contrary to its somewhat grotesque appearance, it has a refreshing taste that pairs beautifully with ponzu sauce.

　It pairs superbly with sake when served as sashimi or in a vinegar salad with salt-rubbed cucumber, but it is also delicious as a nigiri. I visited Tasuke Sushi in Shiroishi City. It is a conveyor-belt sushi restaurant where the nigiri is made to order, and the excellent value for money explains why it is so popular with locals. The self-service fish bone soup is a particularly welcome touch.